Going Up The Country

Going to some place that i've never been before...

Month: March 2014 (page 1 of 3)

Goodbye Nepal, for now.

Day 25: Kathmandu to Delhi

An earlyish start this morning at 6am, ready to pack our last few bits and head to the airport. No breakfast, just muched through the last of my stash of delicious coconut cookies before leaving the hotel. We managed to flag down a taxi pretty much straight away and then it was just a quick fifteen minute drive through an eerily deserted early-morning Kathmandu to the airport.

After a brief delay going through the usual security checkpoints etc, we boarded our short ninety minute flight to Delhi, where I now sit writing this. The security here is insane. It took well over an hour to go through what seemed like an unneccessary number of different checkpoints and frisks and more checkpoints, before eventually making it through to the other side. We’re sat in the departures lounge now and there seems to be wifi here so I’ll sign off this trip now with this, my final post of the trip.

As I sit here now in Delhi, almost a month after passing through in the other direction, I can’t quite believe that in another twelve hours or so i’ll be back in the UK. Its been almost ten years since I first started thinking about a trip to Nepal, and the Annapurna region in particular, and it has been a long time in the making. I finally hiked the Annapurna circuit, and we did the entire circuit, with no shortcuts or jeep rides, which I’m pretty proud of, I haven’t met a single other person here that walked as far as we did, and almost without exception the other travellers we met were using guides and porters.

From a selfish viewpoint it’s a shame that the natural modernisation of Nepal and the new improved roads have shortened the circuit and condensed the hiking part of the trail. That said, if it improves the lives of the people I have met along my journey, allowing them to transport goods, food, building materials, medicines and everything else further, easier and more quickly then the inconvenience of a shortened hiking holiday seems to pale in significance.

Nepal is in the record books as the poorest country and the highest altitude country in the world (Tibet is actually higher but since1951 is no longer technically classed as a country). I’d argue the case for adding ‘the friendliest country in the world’ string to their bow. For a country with so little, I have never experienced such a welcome, with complete strangers opening up their homes to two unfamiliar foreigners, sharing the little food they had,  eating with us around their communal family table, laughing and singing along round tiny braziers and going above and beyond to make us feel at home.

After almost a month I’m sad to be leaving such a magical place, but something tells me i’ll be back at some point. Goodbye Nepal, for now.

Pakoras, momos and pizza

Day 24: Exploring Kathmandu

After a good nights sleep I woke up quite early feeling pretty refreshed and we went off to try and find a huge covered market that Simon had visited last time he was here, as it seemed like it would be a good ace to find the last few presents we wanted to buy, as well as maybe getting some cheap clothes for myself.

After a half hour walk, through some interesting parks, we found it, and spent a good while browsing all the stalls. Upon closer scrutiny we noticed a lot of the stalls are selling the same wares, and the quality of the goods was not the best, so in the end we didn’t buy anything. It was an interesting sight to see, it looked like a shanty town or slum from the outside, all wooden poles and blue tarps, but inside it was a proper little market.

We walked back a different way, including a stop for a nice cold drink at a little local shop, and then detoured to head back towards the old bit of town we had visited yesterday, as this time I had remembered to bring my camera and wanted to try and get some good photos. Some of the older buildings looked centuries old, with ornate carvings and very fancy woodwork and paintings. There were some huge temples too, but it was a bit quieter than the day before, and I was kicking myself I hadn’t had my camera with me then, but never mind.

For lunch we meandered back towards our hotel but ate at a hotel up the road, the wifi at our hotel was broken, as was the fridge, and to be honest the food yesterday wasn’t anything too special. The new place turned out to be great, my veg chow mein was really tasty, and not too greasy like a lot of the noodle dishes here.

After lunch we went back to the room to drop off some of our purchases and stuff, and then took some drinks up to the roof terrace of our own hotel, which was quite relaxing, with all it’s potted plants and a water feature. We had the whole garden to ourselves, so we stayed up there for a while. As the day wore on we started to get hungry again, Simon wanted to try and get some good videos of the busy streets and I wanted to explore a bit more, so we went out again, looking for a new place for dinner. We passed a few street food stalls and Remembering how goodd some of the street food had been in Thailand I decided to give it a go! and I’m glad I did. I had a really tasty veg pakora followed by the best momos I’d had anywhere in Nepal (momos are like steamed dumplings, a bit like Chinese dim sum). A lot of the ones we’d had had been on their own, and were quite dry, but these were in a kind of sauce and were amazing. We sat in the little mans back room which was so dark it was almost like a little cave, with room for about 6 people, and ate our momos.

Once we’d had enough of the street food we did a bit more shopping and then found a cool little garden restaurant to have a bit more to eat, as both of the street food items were small, a bit closer to snacks than a meal. In the end we just had veg pizzas and some chips as they were cheap and filling, and we didn’t want to have to change more money at this point.

After dinner we took a slow walk back to the hotel, buying a few last small bits and bobs to use up the last of our cash, and then it was back to the hotel to finish the bulk of my packing.

Kathmandu – ancient architecture, delicious food

Day 23: Pokhara to Kathmandu

We spent pretty much the entire morning and early afternoon on a coach today, it wasn’t too bad, but wasn’t as nice as the coach at the beginning of the month, when we were coming the other way. All in all we were glad to get back to Kathmandu, and headed to the vegetarian place simon stayed before, as our hotel last time we were in Kathmandu wasn’t all that great.

They were quite welcoming but only had one room left, which was a double, with a tiny double bed, and we agreed if we both tried to sleep on it we’d wake each other up all night, so we decided to do one night on the bed each and one night on the floor with all the blankets and pillows.

The food here is good, and cheap, and overall things in Kathmandu don’t seem that expensive. After a late lunch we went out for a walk around and stumbled across some kind of political rally, with my big crowd of people listening to a man in a suit talking through a loudspeaker, which seemed interesting at first, but quickly became a bit boring. We found the old part of the town not far from where we are staying, where all the old temples and government buildings are, and there were lots of Sadhu’s (holy men) walking around with painted faces and big long beards, but typically I had left my camera at the hotel, which was a shame.

We were pretty tired from the coach, so we strolled back to the hotel via some shops and bought some snacks and some gifts, and then just spent the rest of the day relaxing at the hotel, reading and catching up on some world affairs via BBC news now we have wifi again (although only intermittently!)

Kayaking and a hike to Peace Stupa

Day 22: Last day in Pokhara.

We were both awake fairly early this morning for some reason, even though we’d both had a restless night. The power came back on in the early hours so the fan came back on and cooled the room down a bit, which helped, but I’m still feeling a bit tired today. As we had woken up early, we had a pretty relaxed morning, reading for a bit and sorting our stuff out a bit ready for packing. I had a warm(ish) shower and we headed down into town to try and find some kayaks to rent.

The place we rented the boat from had rubbish kayaks and they were quite expensive, but we found some on a side street that looked better and were only 500 rupees (£3.60 ish) each for half a day, so we carried them down the lake, complete with paddles and life jackets. They were quite good little kayaks, but they were the ones they use for white water kayaking, so they were short and stubby and turned sharply whenever you leaned left or right slightly, which actually turned out to be pretty amusing. You’d be paddling along, minding your own business and then suddenly just spin round to face backwards with not much warning!

We headed across the lake to where we landed the boat a few days ago, we got there successfully after a few hilarious spins. When we landed there were some young boys who worked for the restaurant, and they agreed to look after our kayaks for us in exchange for us letting them take them out for a spin while we went for a hike (typical wages here are 100 rupees a day, so there’s no way they could ever afford a weeks wages to rent a kayak for a few hours).

This time we were better equipped and it was earlier, so not as hot, so we hiked up to the a Peace Stupa, a huge monument on a hill above the town. There were great views from the top of the whole town, and Pokhara is much bigger than I thought, it stretched right off into the distance, I think we have only really seen a small part of it. It was only a half hour hike up to the view, but you could tell we’d had a few days off hiking, we were huffing and puffing by the time we got to the top! 

Getting down was a bit quicker, and we stopped for a cold drink at the restaurant on the beach when we got to the bottom. Our kayaks were there waiting for us, so we got in and decided to head the other way, up to the other end of the lake we hadn’t been to yet. Paddling the kayaks was much quicker and easier than rowing the boat the few days before (even with the unexpected turns), so we got there pretty quick, the other end of the lake was like a marsh, and there was loads of wildlife there, we paddled around for a while trying to get really close to animals and filming them. I think we annoyed some of the water buffalo as they were snorting and shaking their horns at us, but there were loads of them, as well as herons, some birds of prey (buzzards maybe?) and a huge flock of cormorants that flew off when we got too close.

We paddled around for a bit, and then followed the other shoreline back and dropped off the kayaks. It felt good to get a bit of exercise again after sitting around for a few days. After kayaking we got some lunch and then headed back to the hotel for a bit. We sorted out our gear and packed a bit more, and then went back out to shop for some gifts and explore a bit more. Spent a good afternoon shopping, saw some interesting stuff and got we more pressies for people.

We had dinner at the hotel, and booked our coach tickets for tomorrow, now were just finishing off the packing and then having an early night as we need to be up at 6am tomorrow to get the coach back to Kathmandu. Our bill for our room for four nights, coach tickets, several meals and bottles of drinks came to 5000 rupees (about £16 each!). I still can’t get over how cheap rooms are here, it’s mad!

Can’t believe the trip is almost over, it’s gone by really quickly, but I’ve definitely missed home more than I thought I would, probably more than I ever have before, but then I guess 3.5 weeks is a long time to be away! Looking forward to seeing soph again, eating some meat again and having a nice hot bath!

I’ll send another update before I head off to the airport on Monday morning, and then I’ll be on my way back to the Uk…

Pokhara by bike

Day 21: Pokhara, day 2.

I woke up a bit later the morning, think I must have been tired! Even with a small lie in we were ready to head out by 10am, we’d both agreed to have a fairly laid back day today, so weren’t in any hurry, but Simon wanted to find somewhere to get his shorts sewn, he had torn a big hole in his trousers on the trail so had cut them off and wanted to get the legs hemmed, so that was our first port of call. We turned up away from the lake and headed away from the touristy parts and found a woman with a sewing machine who agreed to sort Simons shorts out for him. We left his shorts there and carried on in a big loop round back to the lake and found somewhere for breakfast, the bread here is super sweet, which makes for a strange cheese sandwich, but it means their chocolate croissants are pretty good!

After breakfast it was almost time for Simon to go pick his shorts up, so I went back to the hotel and he went to to collect them. He came back a bit later laughing and said the woman’s friend at the sewing place had said the woman really liked him and that she as looking for a husband! Simon chatted to her for a bit, I think he was a bit embarrassed but quite flattered. From that point on she became ‘Simons Fiancée’ and I kept referring to her all morning. Simon had seen a bike rental place on his way back from his fiancées, so after relaxing and reading in the sun for a few hours, we decide to to check it out and see how much they were to rent.

In the end we managed to rent a couple of bikes from him for a good price, but after riding for a minute or two it was clear I’d been given a dud. Simons bike was in ok shape, but my seat was torn with no padding in it, the forks and handlebars were a bit loose, the wheel bearings were making a really horrible noise and the gears kept changing by themselves, which meant I couldn’t stand up and pedal at the same time (not good on bumpy stony paths with a seat with no padding!)

We cycled off into the back streets to go explore and see some different areas. We had some tea at a little stall in the bit of town where the locals live, they looked like they didn’t see tourists too often, but were really friendly and helpful.

After cycling around a bit we headed back towards the lake, and followed its shoreline for a bit up in to the hills a little and then decided to head back before it got too late. That and I couldn’t really feel my bum by this point. When we got back I told the guy he really needed to sort the gears out and he was very apologetic.

We also realised it was now 4pm and we hadn’t earn anything since breakfast time, so we nipped back to the hotel to get cleaned up and then went to the restaurant we had the beer and chips deal before went hiking. When we cycled past earlier in the day I noticed that their specials board was a veggie lasagne, so we both ordered a veggie lasagne each as well as a beer and chips deal each. The veggie lasagne was probably the best veggie lasagne I’ve ever had, it was so tasty, much better than I would have expected in Asia!

After dinner we walked back to the hotel and relaxed on the balcony in the sun with a few beers, it was nice to have a chilled day, and my upset stomach seems to be gone today, which is a bonus. It’s been really hot today though, almost 30 degrees, and it’s still really warm now even after sunset. It was ok with the fan on, but there’s no power at the moment so the fan is off. Hopefully it won’t be too hot to sleep!

Getting out on the water

Day 20: back in Pokhara!

After a restless night I woke up fairly early to a bright sunny sky, but I think the curry I had last night is repeating on me, I’ve got a bit of an upset stomach and feel a bit under the weather this morning. I decided I didn’t want to stay in all day and that I’d just carry on like normal, so we decided to go down to the lake and see if we could rent a sailboat. It’s a nice walk down to the lake, and I get the impression there are people here who have just come for a holiday in Pokhara, rather than using it as a starting point for a trek.

We went to the shop en-route and got some supplies for lunch – water, yaks cheese, bread rolls, onions, and I got some juice too. We also stopped at a bakery and got some breakfast. When we got down to the lake, there were loads of rowing boats but only one sailboat that wasn’t damaged, and it looked really small  and worn and not very good, and the guy was asking a lot to rent it (understandable I guess as he had the only sailboat on the lake!) so in the end we just rented a long, Native American style canoe/rowing boat for a few hours. We rowed off (using homemade oars) and set off for the other side of the lake, it was a fair distance and it was about 11am by this point, so starting to get hot, but we made it over there fairly quickly.

We had a sit down for a bit on the other side of the lake, we were going to hike up to the stupa (like a small religious temple/monument) on the hill but by that point it was a bit hot and we weren’t really kitted out for it, plus I was feeling a bit under the weather and couldn’t really be bothered with the climb, so we decided to save the hike for another day, and got back in the boat.

We followed the outskirts of the lake, getting up close to some of the overhanging trees and saw some strange looking birds, bright green parakeets, blue and purple kingfishers, herons and all sorts. We also saw some locals fishing, but I don’t think they had caught anything. The lake seems to be the centre of all the activity her there were about 30 people paragliding in the mountains next to the lake, as well as microlights and helicopter flights going over every 30 minutes, so it was quite busy.

Once we got back it was early afternoon and really hot and I still had a bit of an upset stomach so we decided to go back to the hotel and have a relaxed afternoon, I had a good long nap to catch up on my sleep and finished the book I was reading.

A bit later on we went out for a bit just to get away from the hotel for a little bit, and found a jazz/blues bar with happy hour, so went in there and had a beer. It was up on a roof top and it was quite interesting watching all the different people go by. There was also a small gecko on the sign near us, waiting near the light and every time a fly came towards the light he grabbed it, he looked like quite a fat little gecko so I guess his technique must work quite well. The beers here are huge (660ml) and strong (7% +) and as I hadn’t eaten much today it didn’t take long before I’d had enough! 

It’s really strange to not be out on the trail, moving from place to place, and I think were going to get itchy feet staying here for a few more days! It’s nice to have hot showers and (intermittent) mains power and wifi though, although the internet is very very slow. I had some laundry done today, it’s really good to have properly clean clothes too.

There’s no power at the moment so I can’t send this now, but I’ll send it in the morning, fingers crossed!

The return to civilisation

Day 19: Birethanti to Pokhara (altitude 820m)

So we were woken up nice and early this morning by the family who owns the hotel having a row at about 6.30am, so we got up, packed up and after having a quick breakfast of sweet tea and coconut cookies we set off.

We had seen an old trail on the map that avoided the road, so we asked a few people and managed to find it tucked away down near the river. It was an amazing bit of trail, and one of my favourite parts of the trip. It looked like the trail had been built in the late 70s when they opened the circuit to westerners, but then the road must have been built soon after, and the trail abandoned. You could tell it used to be as good as the other main trails, bt had seen 20 years of neglect. There were old closed up tea houses and crumbling ruins of stairs, with vines and creepers everywhere. Parts of the trail had been washed away or lost in landslides etc, and in those places small local footpaths wound around trees to find the other end of the broken trail. It was a great few hours, climbing all the time, but through proper jungle, and I felt like an actual explorer, it was great fun.

After a while we came out into a clearing, and a small village, where they all seemed quite surprised to see us, but really friendly and happy. The next few small villages were the same, although there were a few more hikers in each village, which I guessed meant that we were getting closer to the road, and soon enough we turned a corner and saw the main road below us, winding round the cliffs.

After anther 30 minutes of walking we came to the junction with the road, it was quite a wide Tarmac road, with loads of traffic, lorries and buses etc on it, and it would have made for a dusty, horrible walk for a few miles until we could find another small bit of trail. We sat down and discussed it and decided we should flag down a bus and head back to Pokhara. We had made it as far as a village called Khandi, which is a lot farther than most people walk, so although we were sad to not make it all the way to pokhara, we were glad to have made it so far. We’ve walked just over 300km in 18 days since we set off, which is pretty good going considering we’ve also been 5.5km high!

In the end we didn’t get a bus as a taxi pulled over and we managed to get him down to 1000 rupees, which isn’t much more than a bus. It was. Bumpy 30 minute ride back to Pokhara, and when we arrived back at our hotel the manager recognised us and was happy to see us. We got a room, headed up and unpacked our bags and started to sort stuff out. The hotel has a laundry service so I’m going I get everything washed properly, washing them in a bucket on the trail isn’t quite the same as having properly laundered clothes!

We got our bags back that we had left here, after a brief scare where he couldn’t find my bag, it turned up locked away in another room, and then we went out to have a look co some lunch. We were looking for a restaurant Simon visited last time, but couldn’t find it, and we had just given up when we heard people calling our name, and saw Dan and Ken, the two Canadians from the first day on the trail, they were sat in a pizza place and they said it was really good, so we stopped there for lunch and had a really tasty pizza. It was good to catch up with them, they had been a. Few days behind us by the time we went over the pass, and then had gotten a bus to Jomsom and had jumped a few days ahead of us, which is why we hadn’t seen them after the first 2 or 3 days.

They had been in Pokhara for a few days and were leaving in the morning, so we said our goodbyes after lunch and went our separate ways. We looked in the shops on the way back, working out which shops had the best stuff and the best prices, and then went back to the hotel to chill out for a few hours. We had dinner at the hotel later on, i had a veggie curry, which as nice, but really spicy, a bit too hot for me to be honest, but I was still pretty full from the pizza, so Simon finished mine off.

The shower was cold as the power was off, but if washed the best I could and then hit the hay the power being off also means there’s no internet, but I’ll send the tomorrow hopefully or as soon as I can!

Blessings from a Sadhu

Day 18: Ghorepani to Birethanti (altitude 1025m)

A really early start this morning, as we are right near a place called poon hill, which is quite high, and the views from the top are supposed to be amazing. It’s a 45 minute hike from here, and sunrise is at 5.45am, so we were up at 4.30 and set off at 5. We left our stuff at the lodge so it was quite an easy hike and we made it up there while it was still dark.

Unfortunately it was really misty, but we couldn’t work out if it was just early morning mist or proper low lying cloud. After waiting up there for a long time, it was well past sunrise time and still zero visibility, so we called it a day and head back down. It was disappointing but on the way down we were speaking to a local guide, and he said as we had done the whole annapurna circuit we had already seen much better views. He said that Poon Hill was more for people on small 2 or 3 day treks, as it was their only way to see the mountains, so that made me feel a bit better.

After getting back to the lodge, we packed up our stuff, had a quick breakfast and then set off. We are descending over 2000m today and I have a feeling it’s going to be hard work, so I wore my knee support. I was right, pretty much the whole day consisted of mile after mile of going down steep stone steps, sometimes each step was a foot high, and it got quite repetitive  after a while. There were some stunning views and we passed through some nice little villages, but the never ending slog of downhill steps kind of took away from the enjoyment of it all really.

We saw a lot of other hikers and tourists today, as we were passing through lots of towns that they do day trips from, after having days of not seeing a soul it was weird to see hundreds of other tourists, and sometimes a bit frustrating, stuck behind a long queue of hikers behind a big group of elderly Japanese with crazy amounts of unnecessary gear!

The last few hours were quite nice as we levelled out a bit and started following the river again, as were so far south now and also quite low altitude the climate was a lot more tropical, the forests changed from pine and bamboo to rhododendron, palm trees and banana trees, and there were all kinds of exotic bird calls coming from in the forest. We walked through a village near to the river in the forest and there was a group of Sadhu’s (Nepalese holy men with long grey hair and beards) collecting for the local school. After dropping a few nepalese notes into their bucket they insisted on blessing us for our contribution and applied Kumkuma (a red powder) to our foreheads with their thumb.

We rounded a corner near a small waterfall and came into Birethanti, where we will be staying tonight. We made good time in the end, but our legs are shot after so many stairs! When we checked in at the trekker checkpoint the woman couldn’t believe we had come all the way from Ghorepani, it doesn’t look that far on a map, but it was a long, hard days walk.

We found a hotel the other side of town, it was a bit strange, but it was massive and we were the only guests so we had the best room, with a huge outdoor balcony with a dining table and chairs and sofas! The shower was cold, but just warm enough that it didn’t make you scream, and I managed to get pretty clean, then we went for some dinner. There’s no power or internet here at all, so I can’t send this update, but after looking at the map I think we might end up back in Pokhara tomorrow anyway. We were hoping to walk all the way back, but there just aren’t any trails, and neither of us is particularly excited about walking down a dusty road for miles. We’ve decided to play it by ear tomorrow, but were going to walk as far as we can.

The neverending stairway

Day 17: Tatopani to Ghorepani (altitude 3188m)

Woke up feeling almost back to normal, apart from being quite hungry, so I think I’m in the clear (fingers crossed!). We decided to visit the hot springs again this morning, we went down there for an early morning soak and a hot shower, which was brilliant, there were lots of Nepalese down there early, and we were chatting to one of them for a while. He turned out to be a Chelsea fan, and was really happy because apparently Chelsea beat Arsenal 6-0 yesterday!

Once we were all cleaned up we headed back to the lodge and ordered breakfast on our way back. After having an upset stomach last night I played it safe with fried potato and eggs. I was really hungry after no dinner last night, and it was delicious and very filling. We were all packed up and ready to leave by 9am, and were anticipating the hike to be 5 hours according to the info in the guide book, but it’s a huge climb, almost 2000m up over a 10km hike, so it could take a while.

It was more amazing views all day pretty much, but with all the stairs I didn’t really get too much of a chance to take them all in. It was really steep and we were pretty much climbing stairs all day, which meant we had to take more regular breaks than usual. We stopped for tea a few times at little tea houses, and had some really tasty garlic noodle soup for lunch.

The whole route is a lot more green and scenic now, and we passed through some beautiful picturesque villages and farms, and everyone on this side seems to be much more friendly. Everyone was really interested in us, where we were from, where we were going etc, and generally the people seem a lot more cheery. Only saw a few other hikers today, which was nice, but as we get closer to Pokhara I assume we’ll see more and more.

In the end it was a 7 and a half hour trek, and some parts were really tough. I’d say it was probably the second toughest day after the day we went over the pass, but it wasn’t too bad. Tomorrow will prob be tough as well as it’s the same kind of altitude change, but all downhill, which is hard on the knees.

We finally arrived at Ghorepani at 4.30pm, and found a lodge with wifi, there seems to be a Canadian school trip here, there’s a huge group of teenagers, one of them is playing a badly tuned guitar quite badly in the room opposite and the walls are really thin. We’ve sorted out our stuff in the room and now were down in the dining room waiting for dinner. As we’ve climbed up again quite high it’s quite chilly, but we have extra blankets so should be ok, and there’s a nice big fire in the dining room.

After tonight I don’t think we will have wifi again until pokhara in 3-4 days time, so won’t update again until then. Can’t believe we’ve been trekking for so long and there’s only a few days left! Dinner will be here soon, so I’ll sign off now and update again as soon as I can…

Hot springs, Yaks Cheese and a dodgy belly

So today we have another rest day, why is well earned with the two long days we just had. Tatopani is a really nice little town, really lush with loads of fruit trees and shrubs and stuff. There’s also a natural hot spring down near the river.

We had a little lie in and then went for breakfast in the restaurant, which was good, I had some sea buckthorn juice, which tasted quite good, I think it’s a local plant they have here. After breakfast we went back to the room and chilled out for a bit, and then headed down to the hot spring to soak my weary legs!

It was bigger than I expected, they had got a pipe running from the spring and had filled up two big stone pools, we paid our 100 rupees and got in, it was really hot and nice, and we stayed in there quite a while, it was just what the doctor ordered for my legs, and after they felt much better.

After an hour or so we’d had enough and headed back up to our lodge. Once we were changed and stuff we decided to go out and get some bread and cheese for lunch to try and save a bit of money. There are some really nice shops here and I bought some more gifts for people and then we found some yaks cheese and got a loaf of bread from a little bakery. We also stocked up a bit on some snacks and I also got a few beers for later on, because they were half the price they were in the lodge.

We had a nice relaxed afternoon, bit of reading, bit of writing and yaks cheeses sandwiches, plus I managed to sneak in a nap to catch up on my sleep a bit. We were going to go for dinner at about 6 but I started feeling quite unwell and was sick a little while later. I didn’t feel too good afterwards so I went back to sleep and Simon went down to eat on his own. I woke up a few hours later and felt a lot better, so ate some of my snacks, including a chocolate brownie I had bought from the bakery, which turned out to be the worlds worst chocolate brownie. It didn’t really have nay flavour, and had a texture the same as the green foam people use for flower arranging!

Anyway, we still have no wifi so I couldn’t send this update, but I’m hoping we will have in our lodge in Ghorepani tomorrow night.

I still feel a bit ropey, so I’m going to hit the hay now and hopefully I’ll feel better in the morning. I think it’s probably either something I ate or maybe the water from the sink here. I added a sterilizing tablet to it as usual but I guess you never know.

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