Day 17: Tatopani to Ghorepani (altitude 3188m)

Woke up feeling almost back to normal, apart from being quite hungry, so I think I’m in the clear (fingers crossed!). We decided to visit the hot springs again this morning, we went down there for an early morning soak and a hot shower, which was brilliant, there were lots of Nepalese down there early, and we were chatting to one of them for a while. He turned out to be a Chelsea fan, and was really happy because apparently Chelsea beat Arsenal 6-0 yesterday!

Once we were all cleaned up we headed back to the lodge and ordered breakfast on our way back. After having an upset stomach last night I played it safe with fried potato and eggs. I was really hungry after no dinner last night, and it was delicious and very filling. We were all packed up and ready to leave by 9am, and were anticipating the hike to be 5 hours according to the info in the guide book, but it’s a huge climb, almost 2000m up over a 10km hike, so it could take a while.

It was more amazing views all day pretty much, but with all the stairs I didn’t really get too much of a chance to take them all in. It was really steep and we were pretty much climbing stairs all day, which meant we had to take more regular breaks than usual. We stopped for tea a few times at little tea houses, and had some really tasty garlic noodle soup for lunch.

The whole route is a lot more green and scenic now, and we passed through some beautiful picturesque villages and farms, and everyone on this side seems to be much more friendly. Everyone was really interested in us, where we were from, where we were going etc, and generally the people seem a lot more cheery. Only saw a few other hikers today, which was nice, but as we get closer to Pokhara I assume we’ll see more and more.

In the end it was a 7 and a half hour trek, and some parts were really tough. I’d say it was probably the second toughest day after the day we went over the pass, but it wasn’t too bad. Tomorrow will prob be tough as well as it’s the same kind of altitude change, but all downhill, which is hard on the knees.

We finally arrived at Ghorepani at 4.30pm, and found a lodge with wifi, there seems to be a Canadian school trip here, there’s a huge group of teenagers, one of them is playing a badly tuned guitar quite badly in the room opposite and the walls are really thin. We’ve sorted out our stuff in the room and now were down in the dining room waiting for dinner. As we’ve climbed up again quite high it’s quite chilly, but we have extra blankets so should be ok, and there’s a nice big fire in the dining room.

After tonight I don’t think we will have wifi again until pokhara in 3-4 days time, so won’t update again until then. Can’t believe we’ve been trekking for so long and there’s only a few days left! Dinner will be here soon, so I’ll sign off now and update again as soon as I can…